Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children do not want to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
